Even though I am an African cichlid keeper, I do my best here on the blog to cover all cichlids. I also try to provide information that is useful to all cichlidophiles, regardless of what they keep. I have covered Apistogramma species, pikes, discus, angels, mbuna, lamprologines, and other cichlid types, tribes, and subtribes in the past. However, eartheater cichlids of South America (SA) are one type that I have little information on. Though not for the lack of trying, I have sadly been unsuccessful finding someone to interview about them…until now.
After exchanging e-mails with a few other cichlid keepers, I finally found my guy. Lee Newman.
I actually knew about Lee, but didn’t know his long history with Geophagines, especially eartheaters. I reached out to him and extended an invitation to do an interview. He quickly responded that he would be happy to contribute to the blog.
Currently the Curator of Tropics with the Vancouver Aquarium, in Vancouver, Canada, Lee has been a fish keeper for over 50 years, most of that with cichlids. In fact, his experience working with eartheaters spans more than 30 years. An avid traveler and diver, he has collected cichlids in Peru, Brazil and Suriname. He’s also an award-winning photographer and author with sixty published articles spanning ten languages.
I’m anxious to dive into this (see what I did there), so let’s get going!
Talk a little about your motivation for dedicating so much time to geophagines. How did that start?
I started with geophagines in the very early 80’s with a group of Satanoperca leucosticta – known in the hobby at that time as Geophagus jurupari. I was coming from keeping Apistogramma and was looking for larger cichlids with a relatively social demeanor that could be successfully kept in modest quarters. I was immediately taken by their bizarre, good looks, subtle but appealing colour pattern and, of course, their decidedly pleasant demeanor.
I’ve stayed primarily with eartheaters mainly because in addition to the appealing traits mentioned above, there is a depth of interesting ecology and science associated with the group. We once thought that all species of Satanoperca were delayed mouth brooders, but now, because of the efforts of hobbyists, we know there are immediate mouth brooders and substrate brooders as well. In addition, there are still new species being described, further elucidating the ecology of these fishes in the wild.
Many geophagine species, especially those within the Satanoperca and Geophagus genera, are often called “eartheaters”. Please share with readers unfamiliar with these fascinating fish what makes them different from other SA species.
Many fishes pick at the substrate, but ‘eartheaters’ have evolved to make their living at it! South American cichlids contained in the tribe Geophagini are characterised by a prominent, flattened lobe on the first epibranchial (the epibranchial is a small bone making up the gill arch). While the exact purpose of the structure is of some scientific debate, it is generally thought to facilitate the separation of edible particles from the substrate that is picked up and ‘sorted’ in the mouth of these fishes. Currently as recognized, the tribe Geophagini (according to Kullander, 1998) contains eight genera; Apistogramma, Apistogrammoides, Biotodoma, Geophagus, Gymnogeophagus, Mikrogeophagus, Satanoperca, and Taeniacara, with over 150 species described so far. While Acarichthys and Retroculus may look, and behave, like eartheaters, they lack the epibranchial lobe for formal inclusion.
Describe some of the challenges getting eartheaters to spawn and how you’ve been successful.
The challenges associated with getting eartheaters to spawn can vary widely from species to species. Some species will spawn in the bag on the way home from the LFS, others can take upwards of a year to sexually mature and then use another few months working out the details in order to get it right! I’ve never considered myself to be patient, but for some reason I am with my fish.
No one enjoys doing large, manual water changes – hauling buckets and hoses all over the house, but they are necessary in order to provide the level of water quality required by eartheaters. Eartheaters are a good excuse to automate the water change process if you have access to appropriate mains water. I’ve never automated my water change process simply because my mains water is very low in alkalinity and, as such, picks up copper ions as it flows through the house plumbing. I have to pre-treat my water (remove the copper ions) before using it in my aquariums. Thorough filtration is essential, and the benefits of regular, large water changes cannot be overstated. I change 85% of the water in all my eartheater aquariums every week.
Many species of eartheater grow into relatively large fish, by home aquarium standards. Some Geophagus and Satanoperca species grow to 30 cm (12″). The typical response to a cichlid of that size, in terms of a captive diet, are large food items such as whole frozen krill (Euphasia superba), large pellets, and other bulky items. However, in the wild these fishes eat surprisingly (even shockingly!) small food items such as seed shrimp (5 mm, or just under 1/2″), clam shrimp (about the same size as seed shrimp), small insect larvae (similar to bloodworms – and not the jumbo variety), as well as plant debris and detritus (essentially, green and brown mush…). As a result, I only feed small food items that are easily eaten and swallowed in a timely manner in order for the fishes to get enough nutrition during the limited time they have access to food. I lean heavily on frozen bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, and a home-made gel food made up of mainly krill and green peas.
I learned early-on that many of the challenges can be overcome with a willingness to learn as much as possible about the species in question. Learning about how the species makes its living in the wild through the primary (scientific) literature that is now widely available on-line, and by reading husbandry accounts from other folks that have kept that species, are two of the best ways to get started on a strategy for success. I also find that a willingness to be open-minded (to new information), careful observation (attention to details), and patience are formidable tools in working with challenging species. Lastly, I’d add commitment. Many of the more challenging species come from areas with water chemistry that can only be described as extreme – certainly by aquarium hobby standards. In these cases, managing water chemistry, and water quality, can be a significant burden through regular water chemistry testing and monitoring, and large frequent water changes with suitably-prepared water.
Which eartheater species would you recommend to first time keepers and why?
That’s a tough question… There are so many species that are fairly easy to keep and breed with just a good grasp of the basics – enough space, clean water, and an appropriate diet. Rather than offer one species, I’ll offer three. The immediate mouth-brooder ‘Geophagus’ steindachneri is a great starter eartheater species. A little boisterous in terms of behaviour but thrives given the ‘eartheater basics’. Next, I’d recommend one of the smaller Geophagus species, either the yet-to-be-scientifically-described red head Geophagus from the Tapajos, or G. parnaibae, as neither get as large as some of the other Geophagus species and, as a result, are easier to house in modest-sized aquariums. Attention to water quality is still important, but easier to manage with smaller fishes (smaller fish = less food, less food = less wastes). Lastly, I’d recommend Satanoperca jurupari or S. leucosticta (or any of the less readily identifiable jurupari/leucosticta fish that find their way into the hobby) largely because they are relatively easy to keep using the ‘eartheater basics’. However, there are two caveats with these species – be sure to feed disproportionally small food items (they will take larger items, chew them for a while and then spit them out when you’re no longer looking) and limit the community of other fishes as they are relatively slow to feed and as such can have trouble getting enough food.
Please describe for the readers the ideal aquarium set-up for optimal success keeping these cichlids, in general.
In terms of keeping eartheaters, I follow a fairly strict ‘recipe’ of sorts. There are obviously other ways to be successful, but I find my recipe works well for me. I generally limit the stocking to a single species, or perhaps two as long as they don’t create issues for each other – particularly in terms of social interactions or food competition. I keep them in the largest tanks I can afford and have room for – nothing smaller than a 72 gallon (270L), ensure clean water with thorough filtration and large (>80%) weekly water changes, and an appropriate diet of small items simulating the natural diet as closely as possible. I also use fine filter sand, sold for pool filters, so as to ensure they can sift as they have evolved to do.
Aquascaping can be a little less specific in terms of the ecology of these fishes. Aquarium-safe rocks, water-logged wood pieces and plants can all be used according to personal taste to create a visual-appealing habitat. Just keep in-mind that they will excavate around anything touching the substrate – so non-rooted plants may have an easier time. It is difficult to comment on specific water parameters, as the requirements of the species can vary quite widely. Instead of generalizing, I make an effort to research the species in question in order to provide the appropriate temperature and pH.
You have a keen interest in Chaetobranchopsis orbicularis, a SA filter feeder. Perhaps describe this species and maybe another non-eartheater SA cichlid that you keep (or have kept) that you consider a favorite.
I often struggle with the decision to allocate tank-space to ‘pets’ or ‘projects’. Pets are species I elect to keep simply for the enjoyment of it – Cleithracara maronii, the keyhole cichlid, is likely the best example. There’s no agenda other than enjoying that species in my aquarium. I’m sure the concept of reducing stress by watching fish in an aquarium started as a result of someone keeping keyhole cichlids. The species is somewhat under-appreciated in the hobby because it lacks bold colours and a big personality. However, it has soft, pastel colours best appreciated with careful observation. It is decidedly social, moves about in a slow, deliberate manner, as if really thinking about what it’s doing, and won’t unearth or eat aquarium plants. It is just a really great fish to keep! ‘Projects’ on the other hand, are species that I elect to work with – partly out of personal interest, but also, if successful, for the opportunity to contribute something new to the hobby, perhaps even science.
Chaetobranchopsis orbicularis is described in the primary and hobby literature as a filter-feeder, having morphologically adapted long, thin gill rakers capable of straining small food organisms from the water column. Providing a suitable food in enough quantity, that stays in the water column, to provide the appropriate nutrition is the most significant challenge with keeping this species. Upon import, they often arrive thin and under-nourished, and often stay that way, despite efforts to the contrary, until their premature demise. There are scientific papers that describe the gut contents of sampled wild fish telling of diets made up of micro-crustaceans. With the availability of prepared and frozen crustacean-based foods in the hobby at this time, all one needs to add to the recipe is patience. In my experience so far with C. orbicularis, it can take weeks to get them to accept a new food item and take about 20-30 minutes of slowly adding food to the water column in order for them to ‘fill up’. It takes a little commitment to feed them properly – again, in my experience.
Adding some complication to the effort with C. orbicularis is the fact that my three fish (2 males and 1 female) really don’t seem to like each other’s company. I started them out in the same tank and soon realized there was a pecking order that strictly-governed access to the food. The fish at the bottom of the pecking order was not getting any, so I moved it to another aquarium. Then, shortly after removing the ‘omega fish’ the dominant fish simply focused its attention on the only remaining fish. Shortly thereafter, I had to move the second fish to another aquarium. So, at the moment, the breeding plan is on hold while the three fish mature separately in their own tanks! Chaetobranchopsis orbicularis is definitely a project!
There have been considerable changes recently in the import/export rules for SA cichlids. Can you summarize how these changes might affect the hobby today and going forward?
While I’m certainly no expert regarding the import and export rules for SA cichlids, I can make some generalized comments on the situation as I currently understand it. Many SA countries, not including Brazil, have been relatively liberal in the selection of species allowed for export. Brazil, on the other hand, has historically been significantly more restrictive using a ‘positive’ list – meaning that if a species was not on the list, it could not be exported. That was changed earlier this year. In May 2021, Brazilian authorities changed the list from a ‘positive list’ to a ‘negative list’. The negative list contains species that fall into any one of the following four categories; listed on Brazil’s list of endangered species, CITES-listed species, species that occur only around oceanic islands (applies to marine and brackish water, i.e., estuarine, species only), and species that have specific requirements that may require special planning measures (not exactly sure what that means). I think it is a good step forward, not only for hobbyists, but also for the local fishers and of course, the environment.
What role do you think hobbyists can and/or should play in ensuring that SA cichlids remain readily available in the hobby?
The late Wayne Leibel used to say that we were/are living in the ‘golden age’ of cichlid species availability in the hobby. That’s hard to argue once you’ve seen a few stock lists and consider the steady stream of new species descriptions. Curiously though, some species just aren’t around so much anymore. I haven’t seen the ‘classic’ phenotype of Satanoperca leucosticta in years – the one with the large, bright spangles on the face and pre-operculum, and along the dorsal fin insertion. At one point, all one could find, despite the name on the tank label, was the ‘classic’ S. leucosticta.
To keep any species of SA cichlid in the hobby, there needs to be interest – someone who wants to keep it. To generate interest, hobbyists need to know about the species, at least some basic ecology and, specifically, a strategy for basic husbandry. For that information to get out, those with knowledge of, and experience with, the species need to disseminate that to the wider community. Husbandry articles are not difficult to write, and any editor would be happy to help with the process if needed. Grab a few photos to go along with it, and aside from getting your name in print, you could be inspiring someone to keep that species. Sharing information – particularly husbandry experience, by way of the written word is one of the best ways to keep species in the hobby.
Another way that might help keep species in the hobby is by encouraging the purchase of sustainably and ethically collected wild fish. The middle Rio Negro ornamental fishery is a great example of a situation that doesn’t pit people against the environment. The conservation organization, Project Piaba, has shown that the collection of South American tropical fishes for the aquarium hobby can be biologically sustainable for the species, can serve to protect the natural environment and provide livelihoods for local people. There are other up-sides as well. There’s little chance of escaped exotics into a naïve habitat, little chance to introduce or spread a novel pathogen and, now with Brazil’s new negative list, the opportunity for even more new species to come into the hobby. Supporting sustainable extraction means that we preserve the environment, making it possible for future generations to enjoy a rich diversity of species in the hobby, like the one we enjoy today.
I posed the following question to a couple of prior interviewees and I’m going to ask you the same: If Master Cichlid Keeper was a formal accolade/title in the hobby, what would you consider criteria necessary to receive it?
To be honest, I always have reservations regarding the use of the term “master”. Used in that context, it could infer that someone has ‘mastered’ cichlid keeping – and with the breadth and depth of the family, I’m just not sure how that could be possible. Therefore, the term ‘master’ would need a definition. As is common in the hobby, ‘master breeders’ are defined by a point system – breed enough fishes, accumulate enough points, and they become ‘master breeders’, so the title serves to acknowledge their effort in breeding fishes. If the term ‘master cichlid keeper’ isn’t based on points for breeding, it would need another form of transparent measuring stick!
Okay, with that said, I’ll offer an answer to the question! First, most cichlids quite readily do what comes naturally, sometimes despite how they are being kept! So, while assigning breeder points to species seems like a logical type of measuring stick, it fails to capture other important elements. Going back to what I said answering the question regarding the role hobbyist can and should play, I think a master cichlid keeper should be writing about his or her experiences – doesn’t have to be for the glossy magazines (although that would be good as well), but their own club publications, or perhaps for a national association like the ACA. Getting the information out to the wider community should be considered an incumbent responsibility of success. Perhaps there’s some number of publications that must be achieved. I think the criteria should also include having done some number of public presentations – such as talks to clubs. Most might be local, and that’s okay, again, it’s about getting the information out to folks. Writing and speaking serve to build the communication skills necessary to pass along the information in a useable form. I also think the criteria should include a formal connection with cichlids in the wild – to nature. Having participated in a collecting trip or two, or otherwise spent time with cichlids in the wild enabling the potential recipient to speak to the ecology of the habitat and the conservation issues that apply would round out the breadth of knowledge and experience I’d expect from a master cichlid keeper.